Greetings! Just wondering if many of you use the loop method to start your thread? How long do you cut your thread if you do?Thanks so much.
Thank you for the excellent tips ! Now on to practice.
Securing floss ends can be tricky. If you're making a piece intended to be framed or finished as a wall hanging, you won't worry much about securing the floss tails because you likely won't be washing it much, if at all, or touching the work once it's completed. For those, I just pull a short end under several stitches on the back side and call it good. If you're making a table mat, runner, table cloth, etc., you will want something a little more secure. For something like that, I generally pull it behind two stitches, loop it under the second stitch again, then pull under a couple more stitches. Cushion covers are a little different for me. The Man uses them happily and vigorously and one of my little dogs insists on napping with a pillow under his noggin, so they need to stand up to wear and repeated hand washing. I will generally pull floss the under about 5 stitches, looping under each one before trimming. I know this method is super secure because it's really hard to frog after I've done it. I've never figured out how to do the pin stitch, but now you've all got me thinking about that again! That's probably the best way to have the back of your work look as nice as the front.
This thread inspired me to look up and watch a couple tutorials on the pin stitch. Very interesting! Do people find it works on the 26 count traditional groundcloth? And does it hold firm even if/when the finished piece is washed? I may give it a try.
I use the pin stitch myself to start a length. Just recently I figured out how to use it to end a length. I find it is very secure and very clean. But I confess I’ve never investigated the loop method So I don’t know its attributes.
I'm a looper! If you alternate directions with your floss, you can sometimes notice a difference in sheen. It's too hard for me to keep track of which way the twist goes, so looping is a good way to keep the sheen of the floss consistent when using two strands and not worry about which end of the floss goes in the needle first. As far as length goes, that depends on several personal preferences. Large area means go longer to conserve floss. Rough fabric that tends to fray or resist the floss, means go shorter to minimize fraying. I recently tried the Mikini cloth and was able to cut my floss to 2 yard lengths. No lie! That cloth is so dreamy! I also like looping because there's only one end to weave back in, and this makes for a cleaner finish on the back, IMO. I'm self taught, so I probably do this completely wrong so please feel free to ignore my preferences. If we all got together IRL, we would probably be really impressed with the diversity of techniques. It's really fun to hear from all of you and learn about how you do things.
@Cindy Russell I like using the pin stitch but I can’t figure out how to do it when ending a thread. No problem when starting. But ending I just can’t get it. I find it is a very secure method, though.
Wow. So fun to hear how others stitch! Cindy, are you able to pin stitch in tiny linen weave?
I always use the loop method (starting on the front) if using 2 strands. The length depends on the size of the area I'm stitching. For large areas, I cut the thread approximately 24-inches, then double it over and stitch with 12-inches. For single stitches, I cut the thread to 10-12 inches, and fold that over so I'm stitching with 5-6 inches. I also end the stitching from the front with pin stitches. I only turn my piece over if I need to fix a mistake or clear a knot.
Not I. I secure a (very) short tail under the following stitches in the back.
Yes I do use the loop method to start almost all regular cross stitch with solid colored DMC thread. I cut my thread about 30 inches so doubled I start stitching with approximately 15 inches.